Thanks for the kind words and support!
First off, let me say that I did this by the seat of my pants. I don’t do drawings or things like that well. It was a lot of ‘do this part, fit it to that part, figure out how to make it work with the other part…’ and some of this shows. I’m the kind of guy who buys the $1 cigar box of nuts bolts and junk at yard sales- just in case you ever need an odd item, and a few things I used came from these boxes. All I had to work with was the 1 picture here on the webpage. I had to take some artistic license with things like the table hinge because I have no clue what the configuration is. But, all in all I wanted to have something that looked fairly close to the actual chest.
Below is the picture of the footlocker I started with. It’s not as deep as the chest should be, coming in at around 8” internally not counting the headspace in the lid.
These pictures are the table top. It is made of 2 pieces of ¾” thick wood side by side for a total width of 15”. It is 23 ¼” long. On the underside of the table is a strip going the whole way around another ¾” thick. The strips hold the 2 table top pieces together nailed from the bottom- no nails are present on the writing/work surface.
The way to hinge the tabletop was a bugger. I didn’t want all kinds of hardware protruding from the lid (bolt heads, nuts, etc.). My solution was to cut a piece of ½” dowel rod the exact width of the lid inside. I drilled a pilot hole on each end of the rod. Using the wood strips on the underside of the table top, I created a channel for the dowel to run through. I placed the rod inside then secured it in the channel by placing another strip over top of it. This strip in no way binds the rod- this enables the table top to swing into position and back on the rod. A simple hinge. I took the rod and table assembly and fastened it inside the lid by screwing through the lid from outside into the pilot holes in the rod. The table assembly is now mounted to the lid.
Next I tried to figure out the length of the support legs from about mid-table to back inside the lid, taking into account the support inside the lid that the legs would engage. I cut 2 thin strips of plywood for the legs. Then put holes under the table to connect the legs. The 2 extra holes in the table shows I didn’t figure too well where they should fall. First the table was sloped down, 2nd it was canted up. So I put a 3rd hole between them. Hey, it worked.
The legs are connected to the table via screws up top, and have another length of dowel between them at bottom for support and to catch the latch. The latch looks like an old window pull I found, and it fit the dowel perfectly. I attached the latch to wood and mounted it inside the lid with bolts.
A small piece of “L” shaped metal holds the table top in place in the lid. It is fastened through the back wall. The width of the table top is about 2” shorter then the inside of the lid, so it easily slips over the metal clip to swing out.
All that's left is to redo the outside of the chest. Sorry Helen Estock of Yonkers, NY- it can't stay that way forever!
In a nutshell, that's how I did it. Someone with more skill who can think it through first can no doubt inprove on this. Hope this sparks some ideas!